Pacaya's Peak, Chaos of Chichi and Serenity in Semuc Champey

After our Spanish school ended in Antigua, we had the weekend to see some of the sights in the area. On Saturday we signed up for the hike up the volcano Pacaya, about a two-hour drive out of Antigua. Pacaya is meant to be one of the most exciting volcanoes to hike as it is very active. Last May, Pacaya errupted and rivers of lava were visible. The hike up any volcano will obviously depend on the tempermant of mother nature, so we were unsure what to expect. Pacaya is 2500 meters high with puffs of acrid sulferous smoke rising from its peak. The road towards the volcano started winding its way uphill and in the valley below a town was clearly visible. Further up the steep mountain we went and still, little wooden houses were tucked into the hillside, as if daring the active volcano to touch them. With a mini-van full of tourists, the driver brought us to the base of the volcano where we were met by little Guatemalan children swarming around us as trying to sell us walking sticks. Each stick started at 5Q but in the end I got a stick for 1Q, even though the sticks were not really necessary. Horses are also optional for rent if the hike is too hard, but determined to make the hike on our own two feet we headed for the peak.

Andrew, hiking Pacaya

Pacaya's Peak

The hike took just under two hours on a steep incline, loose pebble-sized volcanic stones and shoes filling with black dust. The trees were left behind and only the barren wasteland of pumice spread before us. As we came near the top we had to walk over the area that last year was a lake of lava and as the area cooled, the area began to buckle and large cracks and rocks run through the hardened mass. It's a strange feeling to be walking on land that is in it's infancy stages of being formed. At this altitude and with the setting sun, it is cool and we were in jackets and long pants but with only a few more steps upwards the heat could be felt coming from the ground. In one area there is a large cave and within, it feels as if you have entered a sauna. The rocks are so hot that we were able to roast marshmellows over them and looking through cracks in the rocks, the red glow of molten rock was visible. Hiking down in darkness and the light of our flashlight was an adventure in itself and exhausted we piled back in the van for the two hour ride home.

Andrew and Ana at Pacaya

Ana in the cave on top of the volcano Pacaya

Friday, Saturday and Sunday nights in Antigua are the nights when the city becomes alive. Locals, tourists and people from Guatemala City all come in to town to go dancing. We went out for a few drinks with the school friends we'd made that week, but were in bed early knowing the next day would be another early start.

Our ride came for us at 6:45am to take us two hours outside Antigua to the famous market -Chichicastenango. This market is the largest market in Central America, spanning blocks in all directions. The market happens every Thursday and Sunday and vendors come from all areas of Guatemala to sell their goods. This market attracts the tourists and locals alike, as the streets team with people, pushing and shoving to walk through the narrow passages. The vendors come the night before to claim a spot and set up their merchandise, often camping out to be ready for the morning. The central area of the market is geared towards tourists and each stall sells beautifully handcrafted materials, scarves, purses, clothing and trinkets. Vendors shout from their stalls, beckoning you to look and buy. The chanting of price and product starts to sound like an auctioneer as the phrase is repeated constantly and with a furious and desperate speed. The zig-zag of lanes lead outwards from the central street which is geared for tourists towards the outer edges meant for locals. All fruits and vegetables can be purchased in these outer stalls, as well as live chickens and chics sold at nearly every stop, held upside down by traditionally clad women. Each lady wears their traditional Guatemalan clothing of brightly coloured woven skirts and tops, with often a bundled baby in a blanket slung over one shoulder and a basket on top of their heads. Little woman push to get by and the area swarms with locals. Near the center is a large white church and the stairs are covered with freshly cut flowers for sale, and sitting atop these stairs is the perfect perch over the crowded streets below. After four hours of walking in the maze of people, yelling, pushing and begging for you to buy, we were marketed out and were ready for the long ride back to Antigua, leaving the vibrant colours behind. Sunday night we went out for dinner with a group of Danish girls from our school as a farewell meal and packed our bags for our journey the following day.

Church and flower vendors at Chichicastenango

The over crowded center of Chichicastenango's market

Chichicastenango

Please buy!

Woman selling flowers at Chichicastenango

Children at Chichicastenango

Chichicastenango

We needed to backtrack up through the interior of Guatemala, a seven hour grueling ride, to reach the gem of the country -Semuc Champey. Squished in a mini-van with fifteen people and uncomfortable seats, we were miserable the entire way; however, the scenery out the window was beautiful. Guatemala consists of rolling hills and lush green mountains with limestone cliffs. The winding highway through these hills makes for a long journey, but it was a great opportunity to see the uninhabited landscape. Originally, we thought we would stay in Lanquin, a small town that is 11km outside of Semuc Champey, but upon arrival we realized that there was no need to stay there if we were planning on spending our time at the river. We caught the local bus, overloaded with passengers, food, and tires, and journeyed the 11km of dirt and rocky road, further down into the jungle. At the base of many mountains is a little valley that has a beautiful green-blue river flowing through it. There are only a few hostels that are available for accomodation, and they are far from each other with only wilderness between. We arrived to our little cabin-style dorms at Posada Las Marias, and settled in for the night. There is no electricity here, only a generator that runs from 6-9pm at night provides light during dinner. There is a common area with tables where they serve basic meals with a very simple and set dinner every night. The hostel also has it's own little pier and rope swing into the river, making it a great place to relax in the quiet and peaceful beauty.

Ana and Andrew at the lookout in Semuc Champey

Birds-eye-view of Semuc Champey

Semuc Champey

Semuc Champey

Semuc Champey

Semuc Champey

Andrew and Semuc Champey's waterfall

Semuc Champey is a stunning place. A ten minute walk up the dirt road from our hostel you pay an entrance fee of 50Q to enter the park. Walking down to the river you find yourself at a series of emerald green pools that spill from one shelf to the next. If you walk to the top of these pools you find the strange phenomenon that creates them. The river rages through a channel and into a cavern underground, almost like a tunnel. Above the river is land to which pristine spring water flows from the mountains in all directions and cascades into the series of pools, only to fall from the last pool down a stunning waterfall and to meet with the rapids of the river that exit the tunnel-like landform. We spent our first full day in Semuc Champey basking in the sun and beauty of this place, jumping from one pool to the next and exploring the area. The pools are shallow enough to be warm, but deep enough that you can dive into each one. On our way out of the park, we noticed the sign pointing to the lookout and took on the steep hike up the limestone cliff. Exhausted, we reached the top and stood speachless, staring down at a birds eye view of the brilliant blue-green pools below us.

Semuc Champey

The river carving out a chasm before entering the tunnel at Semuc Champey

Where the river enters the tunnel at Semuc Champey

Semuc Champey

Semuc Champey

Where the water exits the tunnel at Semuc Champey

Semuc Champey

With the slow paced life of Semuc Champey, we spent our evenings enjoying having nothing to do. Each night we took cards to the outdoor communal eating area and played crib while waiting for dinner. When the generator kicked in, we'd plug in our computer to charge up the battery during dinner, and then when the generator turned off, we'd curl up in bed and watch a movie until running out of power.

Our second day at Semuc Champey happened to be my birthday and I felt spoiled to spend it in such a beautiful place. We signed up for the tour of the cave and with only three other people set out to explore. Andrew and I have been through quite a few caves, yet nothing will ever compare to this experience. Entering the cave, our guide gave each of us one long, thin white candle. The cave has a river flowing through it and gushes down a waterfall to meet with the main river below. Entering the cave with our candles, we waded through the water to see stalectites and stalecmites, but unlike other caves we'd been through, this one was full of adventure. One turn through the cave the water was barely ankle deep and the next you were swimming, unable to touch the bottom and trying to hold the candle above your head. Holding on a rope, we scaled a waterfall within the cave and found a pool so deep that climbing up the walls we could cannonball into the water below. There were holes you had to duck and swim through, and others that you had to fall through into water below. The maze of passages went more than 10km deep and could take up to four hours to explore, though we spent only a couple hours and had an incredible time. The candles made the experience that much more fun as they flickered against the walls. After the caving, we came out to find a big rope swing and took turns shrieking and launching ourselves into the river. Finally, we got innertubes and floated lazily down the river until we reached the pier at our hostel to finish the day soaking up the last rays of sunshine.

Entering the cave in Semuc Champey

Semuc Champey's cave

Candle-lit tour of Semuc Champey's cave

Andrew climbing the waterfall in Semuc Champey's cave

The sombrero rock formation in the cave at Semuc Champey

Ana at Semuc Champey's cave

The cave at Semuc Champey

Andrew practicing his flips off the rope swing

Andrew jumping around the pools at Semuc Champey

Ana's Birthday "cake"

Since the journey to Semuc Champey was a hard one, and the place is so stunning, we decided to stay one more day enjoying this simple and beautiful life. We woke up to a french toast breakfast, spent the morning suntanning on the pier and the afternoon back at Semuc Champey's many pools, taking final photographs and sitting for hours staring at the almost unnatural colour. With our final dinner here and an early night to bed, I type this blog post with the dying battery of my computer before the lights go off at nine. Tomorrow we catch a ride back up to Lanquin and return the seven hours back to Antigua for the night. From Antigua we will travel to Lago de Atitlan the following morning to spend a few days on the lake. Having had no contact with emails we hope to have internet access on the lake and to be intouch with friends and family, but if not, forgive us for the long delays in our replies.

Semuc Champey

Semuc Champey

Ok... eww... but cute all the same! Love

With love to friends and family, we hope you are all well.

Ana and Andrew